“The biggest distillery you’ve never heard of.”
My wife and I recently went on a little vacation to Madison, Ind. It’s beautiful down there along the Ohio River. While there, we decided to travel east to Lawrenceburg before heading back home. Mainly because I wanted to take a gander at the “mysterious” MGP whiskey distillery there.
Indiana is the third-largest producer of bourbon and rye in the world, and there can’t be a discussion of Indiana bourbon (or bourbon, period) without mentioning MGP. In fact, MGP is why Indiana ranks amongst the top bourbon and rye producers.
When one arrives in Lawrenceburg, it is impossible to miss the huge MGP distillery. It’s a gigantic, old, brick, factory that is totally reminiscent of something out of the movies. No lush grounds. No tasting rooms. No tours that I’m aware of. Just a gargantuan whiskey making behemoth.
I half expected to see a bourbon making version of Willy Wonka strutting behind its gate. He wasn’t there. Disappointing.
The plant was first put into operation in 1847 and was the former Seagram’s Distillery. It has been making whiskeys continuously for over 175 years. Yes, even through Prohibition. Seagram’s went out of business in the early 2000s and the distillery changed hands a few times until bought by MGP. The whiskey-making side of the operation (they also make products for agriculture) now operates under the name of Ross & Squibb, though the term MGP has become ubiquitous in the whiskey world.
So, what’s the big deal? That’s a long story that involves secrecy, multi-million-dollar lawsuits, and bottle labeling laws … too much to get into here. Suffice it to say that MGP makes a lot of our favorite brands of bourbons and especially ryes, and most of us don’t even realize it. This is particularly true of MANY of the smaller distilleries around the country, as mentioned in my last column regarding West Fork. For some reason some bourbon enthusiasts find this distasteful.
Simplifying the story quite a bit:
Imagine a new distillery is started. Whiskeys, especially bourbon, take time to age; at least two years by law, and the longer the better. There aren’t going to be any profits made for at least two years.
The remedy? Find a large distillery that has product on hand and is willing to sell it to you. You then finish it by blending, aging it longer, finishing it in special barrels, or a combination thereof, and then bottling/labeling it. Viola! You have a bourbon/rye brand!
The kicker is that small distilleries might not (they usually don’t) want the consumer to know that their quaint, homegrown product is actually made in a huge distillery. Much of the time these smaller distilleries only use MGP’s barrelings until their own whiskeys come of age. Many times they don’t. Doesn’t really matter. As far as the “controversy” surrounding it goes, I say more power to them.
I’ve mentioned ryes a few times today. That’s because rye whiskey is where MGP really shines. They make many of the best rye whiskeys in the world. This is true of their own outstanding brands such as Remus Highest Rye and Rossville Union. They also make Bulleit Rye, Templeton Rye, Angel’s Envy Rye, and Redemption Rye, just to name a very few.
Books could be written about the story of this venerable distillery, the dozens upon dozens of whiskeys that they make, and the “controversy” surrounding it. I, for one, am thankful that there is such a wonderful place making outstanding bourbons and ryes. The world is a little better place with their great whiskeys in it.
After all, good whiskey is good whiskey, no matter what the label reads, or where it comes from.
Until next time – cheers!
Jon Smyrnis is a lifelong Indianapolis area resident. He enjoys traveling, hiking, biking, kayaking, dining out, and, of course, fine cocktails and great bourbons.