Maker’s Mark

Maker’s Mark distillery in Loretto, Kentucky – Ditto.

The above was going to be my column for Maker’s Mark. I’m fairly certain that the powers that be wouldn’t have appreciated that. They’d be correct; not very interesting writing, despite it being my true feeling. So, as promised, here goes.

Maker’s Mark Distillery is a beautiful place. On the National Register of Historic Places, it sits on the lovely grounds of Star Hill Farm near Loretto, Ky. I love the buildings, painted black with red accents – stunning. The place features all of the usual distillery stuff: tours, tastings, and the farm-to-table Star Hill Provisions restaurant (where I have not had the pleasure of dining). One unusual practice there is their bottle dipping. One can pay (of course) to purchase a souvenir bottle and dip it in Maker’s signature red wax.

Another nice experience is to become a Maker’s Mark Ambassador. One signs up for it and they set aside a barrel with your name on it (of course, I’m certain it’s not the only name on there). As the barrel matures, you get updates, insider info, and even small Christmas gifts from the distillery. Then, when it’s finally matured, you get a Willy Wonka-ish Golden Ticket to tour the distillery and dip your own bottle(s) from your own barrel in their signature red wax. And, it’s all free. Well, you’ve gotta pay for the booze, but all of the perks are free. Marketing is awesome!

Okay, I have to stop putting it off. Let’s get to the whiskey. Last night I sat with a small pour of Maker’s Mark and also a sampling of their Private Select Strawberry Shortcake #3. More research. I hope you all appreciate the sacrifices I make for you.

The thing about Maker’s Mark’s business practices is that they don’t have a lot of frills or variety when it comes to their bourbon selections. They offer Maker’s Mark, Maker’s 46, their Oak Stave Collection, of which the Strawberry Shortcake is a part, and that’s about it. I like that they keep it simple. However …

Have you ever had a squeaky door in your home? You go and grab the mechanics’ oil or 3-in-1 oil and apply it to the squeak. As you do, there’s that distinct mechanical oil smell. Well … that’s what Maker’s Mark tastes like. To me. Seriously.

Number one, it’s not anything special. Number two, the machine oil finish is off-putting. I found this to be the case with the “Strawberry Shortcake” as well. Though I even employed my “try it at least twice on two separate occasions” rule. Same results. Perhaps my palate is just messed up.

It must be because Maker’s Mark is the number one “premium” bourbon in the world. Funny, Woodford Reserve makes the same claim. Whatever the case, M.M. drags in billions of dollars a year for its owner Suntory Global Spirits. Obviously, there’s something good going on here. I just can’t figure out what. Because according to my taste buds, this stuff isn’t great.

It does make a great mixer! For decades it was my go-to in Old Fashioneds and Manhattans. Even that has waned as I have started to experiment with deeper, more flavorful bourbons and even ryes in my cocktails. Still … always have a bottle of M.M. on hand for mixing pleasure.

I suppose that with all of this negativity I’m putting out there towards the big boys of distilling that it would be nice to compare them with something I do like. So let’s do that.

A few weeks ago, I was in Colorado and enjoying the tastes and surroundings of a tiny distillery that no one has ever heard of and probably never will: Shelter Distilling Company in Montrose. Their Single Barrel Ridge Runner Bourbon was so good that I had to bring a bottle back home with me.

This 94-proof gem is delicious. It has tasting notes of sweet vanilla, caramel, and a deep oakiness that continue through the 94-proof finish. Absolutely delightful, and nicely priced at around $50 a bottle. As I said, no one has ever heard of it. That’s a shame. Because …

Tonight, when I’m pondering what to grace my Glencairn with, am I going to reach for the Maker’s Mark or am I going to reach for the unknown Shelter Ridge Runner? You already know the answer to that question. Sorry, once again, truth can be painful. Maker’s Mark just doesn’t cut it.

Is there a “big” distillery out there that’s worth its hype? Uhhhh kinda. Next time let’s discuss the biggest dog of them all: Buffalo Trace. Time for more research!

Until then, cheers!

Jon Smyrnis is a lifelong Indianapolis area resident. He enjoys traveling, hiking, biking, kayaking, dining out, and, of course, fine cocktails and great bourbons.